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I at all times dreamed of spending a summer time hopping alongside the Adriatic. I might contact down in Venice and head to Piran in Slovenia, making my approach down the coasts of Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, and Greece.

Effectively, I sort of acquired that. I by no means dreamed it might be underneath these circumstances.

I’m past grateful that Croatia gave me and my boyfriend what we would have liked — a spot the place we could possibly be collectively at a time once we’re banned from one another’s international locations. Past that, this journey allowed me to work with corporations that believed my work mattered, even on this time of turmoil within the journey trade, and I used to be capable of get to know Croatians extra intimately.

Whereas this was my third journey to Croatia, that is the primary time I ended up discussing the struggle with locals. Cautiously, guardedly. I appreciated attending to know a aspect of Croatia that’s typically stored hidden from guests.

Right here’s what I acquired as much as this month.

A pink-tinted image of Rovinj, looking like buildings on a peninsula with the church poking straight up on top, set in the water.
Rovinj is at all times a spectacular vacation spot.

Locations Visited

  • In mainland Croatia: Dubrovnik
  • On Mljet: Polace, Mljet Nationwide Park, Pomena
  • On the Pelješac Peninsula: Drače, Trstenik, Orebić, Viganj, Kućište
  • On Vis: Vis City, Rogačić, Komiža, Mount Hum, Stiniva, Porat, and the Blue Cave
  • On Hvar: Hvar City, Pakleni, Jelsa, Vrbanj, Vrboska, and Stari Grad
  • In Kvarner: Opatija
  • In Istria: Rovinj, Poreč, Motovun, Groznjan, Pula, Bale, Vodnjan, Fažana
  • In Italy: Venice

(Sure, that’s a LONG record for one month — however take into account having a automotive means you are able to do simple day journeys! I really like stopping in random locations that look cool.)

Kitty! A tiny gray-brown tabby kitten sitting and looking at the camera, looking adorable and with the softest fur ever.
Kitty was the very best a part of this month.

Highlights

Falling in love with the very best kitty ever. After we had been staying in Orebić, a tiny tabby kitten got here to greet us — and he or she grew to become our fixed companion for the subsequent three days. She would run round us and chew our toes within the morning. She would sleep on our laps whereas we labored. She would even bounce within the window in the midst of the evening to wake us up!

Kitty was essentially the most great non permanent pet, and it broke my coronary heart that we needed to depart her. (The locals mentioned that they believed she was owned by a neighbor, and contemplating how properly conditioned she was to people, I’m sure she has an proprietor.)

However it’s made me assume significantly about getting a cat or two as soon as my life is extra settled. The entire story about Kitty is on my Patreon.

Performing some new issues in Dubrovnik. Most of my time in Dubrovnik was in July, however I did a number of new issues I hadn’t finished earlier than in August: I visited Lokrum Island, posed on the Iron Throne, and kayaked round a nude seashore; I ate capon (castrated hen!) at Kopun, and their gnocchi with capon and truffles was the most effective dishes I’ve had in Croatia; I visited the Crimson Historical past Museum, with its unbelievable interactive re-creations of properties from the 70s; and I loved a hosted three-night keep at Lodge Excelsior, a stunning luxurious property I’ve wished to remain at for years.

By way of tourism, Dubrovnik is hurting greater than wherever else in Croatia — partially as a result of it attracts primarily American and British vacationers and that it’s a fly-in vacation spot the place many flights have been canceled, in addition to the cancellation of virtually all cruises. Consequently, the streets had been ethereal within the coronary heart of summer time, an unheard-of circumstance today.

Celebrating my 36th birthday in Mljet. Mljet island is a good looking place I used to be desirous to revisit, and my pals at Croatia Tourism and Mljet Tourism organized a beautiful day journey from Dubrovnik for me. We climbed Montekuc, one of many highest factors on the island, with a ranger, then we toured some villages and went for a silky-smooth swim in a saltwater lake earlier than getting me a birthday pizza at Pizzeria Levanat.

Charlie acquired a badass drone photograph of me standing on Montekuc! We wound down with a quiet evening at Lodge Excelsior, they usually stunned me with a stunning cake.

Returning to Pelješac. We had spent two days on the Pelješac peninsula in July, and in August we stayed for 5. I actually dig this a part of Croatia — the surroundings is gorgeous, the purple wines are the very best within the nation, and it’s an unpretentious, laid again a part of Dalmatia.

A few of the highlights had been visiting the elegant Korta Katarina vineyard, trying out the windsurfing village of Viganj, and sipping wine that had been aged underneath the ocean at Edivo Wine Bar!

A gray rocky beach leading into pale turquoise water, gradually deepening until it becomes bright blue in the distance. Several sailboats and an island in the distance.
Grandovac Seaside in Vis was a terrific spot for a morning swim.

A sublime lengthy weekend in Vis. Effectively, I believe Vis is my new favourite place in Croatia! This island is the furthest from the mainland and it has an unique, upscale air. Simply being there makes you are feeling particular. It’s a giant distinction from each different island. Korčula might have extra attention-grabbing issues to do, however you’ll be able to’t beat the vibe on Vis.

A few of the highlights of Vis had been exploring the army tunnels that also exist at present, attending to see the Blue Cave illuminated, swimming into Stiniva Seaside from the ocean, and having conventional meals at a konoba within the mountains. I might completely love to return to Vis for per week or longer, soaking it in.

Staying on the model new Maslina Resort in Hvar. The Maslina Resort, a one-of-a-kind resort that pushes sustainability to the subsequent stage, simply opened and I used to be honored to be certainly one of their first visitors (they hosted me for 3 days). This property is SO rather more than a typical luxurious wellness resort — it’s inspirational in its perspective and beliefs, it has a contemporary but sensible view of duty to the neighborhood and the planet, and the employees make you are feeling so welcome. And it’s GORGEOUS.

I interviewed the lodge’s supervisor about their distinctive philosophy and the method of opening throughout a pandemic, and will probably be in a submit right here. I can’t wait to share it with you; I believe you’ll discover it actually attention-grabbing.

We spent a bit of over per week in Hvar general. I wasn’t a fan of Hvar City, which was crowded, costly, and stuffed with hardcore social gathering individuals in designer threads paying 200 euros for a bottle of Moet (I believe I’d prefer it extra in shoulder season, when the partiers are gone). I did admire a number of quiet days in Jelsa, a small village with nice worth for cash lodging (we acquired an house for $35/evening!), and Vrboska, Hvar’s canal-filled reply to Venice, is a fairly little city price visiting.

Revisiting Istria in type. I liked my journey to Croatia’s Italian-flavored area in 2012; it’s been nice revisiting and taking a lot better images!

We began in Rovinj and stayed for 3 nights on the Grand Park Lodge, who hosted us. Each the rooftop infinity pool and the personal plunge pool had been SUPERB. Rovinj is as fairly as ever. I even met up with a reader from the US! She and her husband come to Croatia yearly.

We then moved on to the inside and stayed at Roxanich, a superb family-owned wine lodge in Motovun that hosted us for 3 nights. We visited the charming cities of Motovun, Groznjan, Bale, and Vodnjan, and checked out Poreč and Fažana for the primary time. Many truffles had been consumed, as had been many glasses of wine.

Revisiting Venice. On the final day of the month, we crossed from Croatia to Slovenia to Italy! (Sure, People can go to Italy proper now, however provided that they’ve spent the previous 14 consecutive days within the EU. We additionally acquired COVID examined beforehand and had been discovered unfavorable.) I’ve solely visited Venice on day journeys, so it’s unbelievable to have 5 days to discover it in depth!

The view of Hvar from the Spanish Fortress: orange-roofed buildings and green trees surrounding a three-sided harbor edged with white boats of all sizes, the Pakleni islands in the distance, shaped like green droplets in the sea.
Hvar City: I’m not an enormous fan, however I do love this view from the Spanish Fortress.

Challenges

This month had loads of amusing challenges.

We rented a ship in Hvar and it did NOT go properly. One of many common issues to do in Hvar is to lease a ship and discover the Pakleni islands for the day. We thought it might be simple — IT WAS NOT. Just about 1,000,000 issues went improper, from crashing into three boats tied up in port to drifting right into a multigenerational Indian household’s social gathering to by accident sidling as much as a pair of Italian nudists. The entire story of that day is on my Patreon!

We acquired caught in a Biblical-level rainstorm. In Dalmatia, there’s normally rainfall solely as soon as per summer time — nevertheless it’s a hell of a storm. It hit us once we had been revisiting Pelješac, staying in Drače, and realizing that we needed to exit for dinner as ants had eaten our Muesli, the one meals we had.

It went from drizzling to raining SUPER laborious, and once we bumped into our first restaurant, getting soaked, we had been informed they had been reservation-only! Ack! We drove additional down the curvy roads of Pelješac, and we really needed to pull over as a result of the rain was extreme and lightning was cracking throughout us. Oh, and it had knocked out all sign on our telephones. However even after ready, the rain didn’t let up like we thought it might. We needed to maintain going, and we ended up within the city of Trstenik.

After navigating the slim car parking zone and discovering a spot (after almost driving into the ocean), we bumped into the restaurant, about 70 meters, and had been so soaked, it regarded like we had gone swimming. However the employees had been so beautiful, welcoming us with blankets and serving us tomato soup. Then the facility went out!

The drive again was much less wet however considerably scarier, because the roads in Pelješac are surrounded by cliffs and big chunks of filth had fallen out onto the highway. Boy, had been we glad to get again to our house!

I believed our bus was going to fall right into a canal. This month I needed to take public transportation for the primary time since COVID started: an hourlong bus experience from Hvar to Jelsa. Charlie had taken the ferry again to Break up to choose up the automotive, so my decisions had been both a $5 bus or a $60 cab. The bus required masks and there have been just a few passengers, spaced out removed from one another.

However once we acquired to Vrboska, the bus driver needed to do some maneuvering, and it regarded like he was going to drive into the water. Then I felt the entrance of the bus shift DOWN and I knew the motive force had pushed onto the 12-inch lip surrounding the canal. I yelled, “Oh shit!” involuntarily however the driver reversed and we had been wonderful. Phew.

The pizza I had wished for YEARS didn’t repay. I like the black truffle pizza at Jupiter Pizzeria in Pula, however the second time I ordered it, again in 2012, they didn’t make it with tomato sauce and it wasn’t almost nearly as good. So I used to be decided to ensure it got here out with tomato sauce on it.

I mentioned to the waiter, “Sure, I would like it, however not with cream — with tomato sauce. Like a margherita pizza with black truffle sauce.” He stored insisting that every one pizzas had been made with tomato sauce and he reassured me that it might, certainly, be made with tomato sauce.

It got here out. It didn’t have tomato sauce.

I pointed it out to the waiter. I reduce it open and confirmed him. Him: “It’s tomato.” Me: “The place is the tomato?! That is WHITE!”

He took the pizza again into the kitchen and introduced the identical pizza again topped with dollops of chilly tomato sauce on high and half a jar of oregano. At that time I simply gave up.

I imply, it’s a bit of factor — however I had been wanting ahead to this pizza for SO lengthy and I believed I took all of the steps I wanted to ensure it was made with tomato sauce…

Nonetheless no updates from the Czech Republic. However I’m engaged on my choices. I’m inspired by the truth that Austria is now welcoming People, so long as they 1) come from the Schengen Space 2) have a unfavorable COVID take a look at 3) quarantine for ten days. Maybe a bit overkill. The Czechs and Austrians have been shifting a bit in tandem via the pandemic, so I’m hopeful that I can return to my Prague house quickly.

Kate reading her Kindle in an infinity pool overlooking the church-topped city of Rovinj in the distance, at the Grand Park Hotel.
An infinity pool, a view, a Kindle — all I want on the Grand Park Lodge in Rovinj.

Posts of the Month

Turning 36 in a Time of Uncertainty — Birthday submit time! This month, I reflecting on survive the best catastrophe my enterprise has ever confronted, and the way every mini-era of COVID was like my shipwreck from 2011.

Visiting Korčula: A Information to Croatia’s Coolest Island — I like Korčula, and I believe it has the very best assortment of issues to do. For those who’re planning a visit to Croatia, I extremely suggest spending a minimum of a number of days in Korčula.

Is Your Work Proper for Patreon? — I’ve been serving to a few of my pals begin their very own Patreons, and one factor I’ve seen is that some sort of creators are likely to do higher than others.

Why I Can’t Wait to Return to Korea — Korea is among the international locations I most sorely have to re-visit. Right here is how I might do my second journey higher than my first.

Kate sitting in a pool at the Hotel Dubrovnik Palace, filled with pink light. The pool is blue and wavy-edged, set amongst a rocky pink-orange setting.
Posing at sundown on the Lodge Dubrovnik Palace.

Most Widespread Photograph on Instagram

This photograph was taken within the pool space of the Lodge Dubrovnik Palace — a unbelievable out of doors space carved out of the pure rocks surrounding the panorama. It virtually makes you are feeling such as you’re within the desert! And it faces west, so it will get essentially the most delectable late afternoon gentle.

For extra reside updates from my travels, comply with me on Instagram at @adventurouskate.

Maslina Resort: a view from above of a rectangular pool edged with seats, and a tree-edged shoreline and bright blue water.
The view from our balcony at Maslina Resort in Hvar.

Patreon This Month

Patreon is a platform the place I share unique content material from $6 per 30 days. You’ll be able to see it right here! Every month I share one authentic long-form journey essay, plus some shorter works and plenty of unique shares within the personal Fb group.

This month’s long-form weblog submit on Patreon known as Pricey Irshaad. It’s the story of a missed practice to Paris, a relationship gone haywire, and two individuals from completely different backgrounds sharing vulnerability with one another within the coronary heart of London’s King’s Cross station.

I additionally wrote two mini-essays, one in regards to the little kitty we adopted for a number of days, and one about our disastrous day of sailing in Hvar, and I shared an unique video of Groznjan within the Fb group.

I additionally modified advantages this month — now, along with the content material, mid-tier patrons are getting a e book or TV advice personalized to your private likes, dislikes, authors and streaming subscriptions!

Kate standing on top of a rocky formation in Mljet, views of the island in the distance, shot from a drone above.
Epic birthday drone shot in Mljet! Taken with permission of the native rangers.

Ebook Membership This Month

I made a decision to maneuver August’s e book membership assembly, for Braiding Sweetgrass: Indigenous Knowledge, Scientific Information, and the Teachings of Crops by Robin Wall Kimmerer. August was a bit loopy, so we’ll now be overlaying this e book on Sunday, September 20, at 1:00 PM ET.

This e book got here as a high advice in a “What e book has modified your life?” thread in a girls’s private finance FB group I’m in. It has effusive opinions praising its stunning writing in addition to the teachings we will study from understanding our pure atmosphere from indigenous individuals.

So in case you wished to learn and talk about Braiding Sweetgrass, you’ve gotten loads of time to complete it! I hope you be a part of us.

All are welcome and I counsel a donation of $5. You’ll be able to enroll right here!

What I Watched This Month

Love on the Spectrum. On this Australian actuality present on Netflix, a number of twenty-somethings with autism discover ways to date for the primary time. This present is so candy and sort, showcasing their quirky, candy personalities and sharing their challenges. I believe I fell a bit of bit in love with each single particular person within the solid.

This present dispels the parable that most individuals with autismaren’t involved in courting or relationships. That’s what I believed earlier than watching this present, and I’m ashamed I held that perception. It’s not true in any respect. So lots of them need so badly to seek out love.

We’ve additionally been marathoning The Workplace and acquired to the episode with Kevin and the chili. Which may be the toughest I’ve ever seen Charlie giggle!

What I Listened To This Month

This month I loved the “Good White Mother and father” podcast by the New York Occasions. It’s a multi-year investigation into segregation in New York public faculties and one Brooklyn college specifically. The revelations are ugly — you see years upon years of the identical patterns repeating. White mother and father push for integration, determine to not put their children in these faculties anyway, and depart till they swoop again in with a brand new plan to combine that finally falls by the wayside once more.

I’m additionally listening to the Spotify podcast “An Oral Historical past of The Workplace,” which is hosted by Brian Baumgartner (Kevin!) and options interviews with the solid and crew. It’s very well finished.

Additionally, a brand new music advice for you — “Jim and Dwight” by Tom Rosenthal. It’s a cute, folksy, and uplifting music about Jim and Dwight’s friendship on The Workplace. Give it a pay attention!

Motovun: a hill town perched on top of a bright green hill. A small wall and several rows of beige, white, and brown houses on top.
For those who like hill cities, it’s essential to go to Motovun in Istria.

What I Learn This Month

This month I learn 4 new books, taking me to 37 in 2020. Not wherever close to my document final yr, and I’m wonderful with that.

Perhaps You Ought to Speak to Somebody: A Therapist, Her Therapist, and Our Lives Revealed by Lori Gottlieb (2020) — Lori Gottlieb is a therapist in Los Angeles, and when the person she deliberate to marry leaves her out of the blue, she is in determined want of remedy herself. That is the story of Lori and her remedy sufferers — together with a high-powered TV author and a younger lady dying younger of most cancers — in addition to Lori and her personal therapist. It’s now being developed right into a TV present starring Eva Longoria.

I completely LOVED this e book! One among my favorites of the yr by far. I couldn’t cease studying it till I completed it. Gottlieb’s writing is heartfelt and interesting and you find yourself falling in love with all her shoppers. I particularly appreciated how she was capable of have interaction together with her sufferers in a scientific context, then flip it round and examine herself in the identical context, unflinchingly trustworthy. Most individuals could be horrified in the event that they knew their therapist sobbed her eyes out at her personal remedy classes. Extremely beneficial.

The Artwork of Asking: How I Discovered to Cease Worrying and Let Folks Assist by Amanda Palmer (2015) — Amanda Palmer is a musician who broke crowdfunding data — she was the primary artist to hit a million {dollars} on Kickstarter — and her inventive profession is fascinating to comply with. She started as a residing statue in Harvard Sq. (she’s initially from Lexington, Mass., near my hometown, and I liked all of the native references!), when she first realized that artwork is an trade, and cash is just one type of foreign money in that trade.

This e book is a must-read from any one who earns from their creativity and needs extra inventive freedom. Significantly. It gives you extra concepts of what’s attainable. I don’t hearken to Palmer’s music, however the first time I heard about her, it was as a result of she invited musicians to play together with her with out pay, which earned a fierce backlash, together with from me. However this e book reveals WHY she did that — for Palmer, artwork is an trade. Every part she earns goes again into making extra artwork. She even couchsurfs together with her followers as a substitute of staying in accommodations.

This e book is all about creating the work that your viewers loves reasonably than creating extra generic work for the lots. And you understand I can get behind that!

Plus two different books within the self-improvement house. Not together with the particular titles right here since you’ll assume I’m loopy — however I’ve been doing loads of work on mindset recently, particularly on how having a optimistic mindset can enhance the remainder of your life. It takes loads of work to root out the limiting beliefs that you simply’ve held for many years.

A view of Venice! A teal canal surrounded by brick walls, some with balconies with green plants dangling, some with Italian flags.
It’s great to be again in Venice.

Coming Up in September 2020

As I write this, we’re in Venice! It’s wonderful to be right here — I’ve solely visited Venice twice earlier than, however solely as day journeys. It’s magical, particularly when you get away from the touristy components. To have the ability to expertise Venice at this less-touristed time is outstanding.

Proper now we’re working with an company to get me again to the Czech Republic. It seems that I’m able to apply for my commerce license exterior the nation, which is nice — however that’s not sufficient to get me again in whereas People are banned. As soon as I get the commerce license completed, I want to attend as much as 90 days for the freelance enterprise visa to course of.

I’m now kicking off what could possibly be a four-month means of visa acquisition, concentrated primarily in Italy and Croatia. I might want to discover someplace to attend issues out. However as quickly because the Czech Republic lets me in, I’m there.

What are you wanting ahead to this month? Share away!