While our collective future continues to feel uncertain on many levels, Isabel Marant remains practically as usual. His showroom was open and full of buyers: a promising sign, especially if, in a few months, things have improved to the point that we are ready for a wardrobe update. With this collection, the designer is betting that we will gravitate to trendy pieces that last over a single season. “It’s more sophisticated but not complicated,” he said of the lineup, citing mid-century modern artists such as MirĂ³ and Calder and his intention to convey a slightly androgynous female character.

As a result, the shoulders and sleeves are sculpted with the unmistakable exaggeration of the 80s – the classic Marant by means of Saint Laurent – but the overall construction of each piece is deliberately minimal and easy to wear. The reworked men’s shirts will prove particularly useful if the working life remains relegated to Zoom in life meetings. However, the designer still worries about what you might want to wear from the waist down and has remained true to the 1980s by referring to acid-washed denim skirts and stirrup trousers in paler pink.

The duality of the palette between light and relaxing shades and bold tones of green, red and blue seemed a good instinct; we would not want to spend the winter months wrapped in black. As for the clothes – in draped velvet or fluid Tencel with cutouts, you choose – you can only look with desire and hope that there are opportunities on the horizon to justify them and their angular boots covered with metal. Otherwise, Marant’s quilted levels seem more relevant than ever. “The confinement forced me to be very pragmatic,” he said, after spending the time surrounded by the Fontainebleau forest. “This was not a time to be superficial.”

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